Thrush March 2013

March 2013 blog on thrush

White arrows on picture depict thrush areas, red arrow is thrush free.

The frog and hoof is supposed to be harder than the material that the horse treads on.  I suppose that is true everywhere except here in the Pacific Northwest.  That is a good chunk of the reason that a lot of people are convinced their horses cannot go barefoot here…. The foot is fighting 10 out of 12 months to be what it was designed to be….a difficult thing here because of the moisture.

Number one thing to invest in is a hoof knife. There are right and left handed ones. I have one of each.  It is important to keep the frogs trimmed up in between trims.  Keep the edges beveled and neat, flaps trimmed away.  The thrush has less places to hide and you can get the product where it needs to go easier, and use less of it.   A chip brush is useful to apply the product and squish it in good. A wire toothbrush is also useful to get in all the cracks and crevices and get them cleaned out on a daily basis.  Have the shoer/trimmer trim away any diseased tissue and clean up the frog clefts, and show you how to do it yourself, safely.  It is easier than it seems, and if you go slow and careful, it is hard to screw up too badly. A healthy shedding frog isn't something owners should be afraid of maintaining between trims.

Thrush is a disease of the frog.  It is a combination of yeast, fungus and anaerobic bacteria that flourish in tight cracks and deep central sulci, and it always needs to be treated.  Thrush gets trapped in the frog central sulcus and gets infected, causing a deep crack, where it is supposed to be teaspoon shaped.  Thrush eats sole tissue, causing the commissures to get deep.  Soreness, sensitivity, and lameness can ensue.  Unhealthy frogs can look shriveled, shrunken or greasy .   Thrush creates a burning, itchy sensation in the frog, and stalled horses with thrush will stand in their urine, seeking relief from the discomfort of thrush. This creates a huge problem because urine contains ammonia, and ammonia breaks down the protein in the frog, making it even more susceptible to thrush.  Thrush doesn't always stink and have a discharge, and many owners and vets miss it. It is possible for thrush to thrive in feet with hard dry frogs.  I have a friend (I know, shocking) who is a bodyworker who works in S. Cali and Nevada a lot, and she has seen a uptick in thrush conditions there too, where it hardly ever rains. She believes it is environmental.  Predisposing causes of thrush include wet unhygienic stable conditions, poor routine foot care, prolonged confinement, overgrown ragged frogs, and long, contracted or high heels which produce deep sulci.  People mistakenly believe that thrush is something horses only have when the footing is damp and filthy. Once established in a hoof, thrush lingers on through the summer driest of days, creating extreme discomfort for the horses that have it.  If left untreated long term, the infection can make it’s way up to the digital cushion, where it can develop a pus pocket.  Imagine walking on a blister.

Owners should be able to use a sharp hoof pick with a point as sharp as a pencil to deeply and thoroughly probe the entire sole and frog, including the central sulcus, using between 3 to 5 pounds of pressure. (enough to turn your finger nails white)  Hose the feet out thoroughly, scrub the cracks and crevices with Dawn dish detergent or clean water, and a long bristled plastic scrub brush (a regular floor scrub brush works fine), rinse thoroughly and treat them for thrush.  A good idea is to scrub feet out when bathing their horse or on a weekly or monthly basis to prevent thrush from starting. Most horses "bad manners" for foot handling are a response to the pain of having thrushy feet cleaned.  Working on these extremely painful frogs is hazardous business, the pain response is often stronger than if you are working on an open wound, is so be careful!  Think of it as a bacterial infection in the horses foot, an open wound, and institute a daily scrubbing routine to accelerate the healing process. Use a scrub or wire brush to get the frog and all the cracks immaculate, then flush the frog with running water, dry it with toweling, put on a product of your choice.  Cleaning infected feet daily and thoroughly is the best way to insure that your treatments won't be a waste of time or drag on for months.  One aspect of the treatment that most people disregard is the importance of really cleaning the frog thoroughly on a daily basis and prior to treatment. Depending on how severe your horses thrush is, cleaning has different meanings. "Cleaning" can mean picking out the hoof thoroughly once or twice a day for mild thrush that is a fine black line at the bottom of the commisure with a hoof pick. "Cleaning" can also mean a total foot bath with Dawn dish washing detergent with a good brush scrubbing in the wash rack if you have an infection that is taking more than a week or two to clear up.  Yeast  is the white stuff that coats the new frog when a frog has shed. Yeast in a healthy foot IS okay and doesn't need to be treated. Treating it is over-kill.  Fungus  is the black stuff you see when you pick out your horses feet for the first time in a few days.  It can create problems if left in the foot for extended periods of time if the hoof is compromised at all.  A healthy frog is thick and full when mature, with a tough leathery texture.  This durable protective covering is called the Horn. An immature frog still looks healthy with a leathery skin, but smaller and obviously undeveloped.  A frog that's shedding has a loose Horn and feels spongy as opposed to hard. It may be loose enough that it can be pulled back from the emerging immature frog, which is often covered with a white cheesy looking layer of yeast and occasionally a little black thrushy film around the edge. Leave any frog that is securely attached, snipping off  lifted portions, and use a hoof knife to very gently scrape off yeast and the dark thrushy film. By the time a frog begins to shed, it is a simple flap of insensitive tissue that can be trimmed as if it was a flap of dry skin. Don't pull it off! Use pruning shears or your hoof knife.

Now we will go through the treatments, from mild to severe, natural to chemical, so you can make an informed decision that is best for you and your horse.

Topical.

•        Usnea tincture is made from a tree lichen that has anti-fungal properties, and has been used as a medicine for centuries.  It works well with mild to moderate  infections, spray or use a dropper on the frog and commissures. Will not throw the horses mineral balance out of wack.  Topically treating the frog with Usnea  relieves the pain and sometimes makes it easier, but if the frog is filthy, it may take $20 of Usnea to cut through the filth.  Scrub feet good first.  It is suggested applying it daily for 3 days then every 3 or 4 days as needed.

•     Tea Tree Oil.  Use it full strength, I use a dropper.  Good for mild or bad infections, will not throw the horses mineral balance out of wack. Hold the foot up for a few moments to let it soak in. One of the properties of TTO is that it can be quite calming without actually being sedating.  Potent stuff....just a few drops in the sulcus is plenty, and a few in the commissures, as it penetrates like DMSO. Even diluted, it can be quite effective. Some info out there indicates that in small quantities, it can be stimulating, more can be calming.  You will go through a lot more of it if you don’t scrub the feet first.  I read that putting TTO in all the crevices, slapping on a diaper, putting a boot over that (it's very wet here and this was the only way to keep the hoof dry) and within three or four days (new TTO and diaper daily) the thrush was gone.  Have not tried this myself, as it is too muddy.  It is suggested using it for 5 days in a row, will have killed the mild infection, longer for deep seated infection.

•       Colloidial silver may work too, haven’t tried it.  Good stuff is kinda spendy.

•       Betadine, antiseptic may work, haven’t tried it.

•    Oregano Oil may work, haven’t tried it.  Got some, going to try it.

•       Over the counter treatments.  Blue stuff = once a week, tried it, didn’t kill it all.  Green stuff = tried it , didn’t kill it all, (both contain inorganic copper, can throw other minerals out of balance) white power, works well in hoof boots….. Read that most OTC treatments are so harsh that they chemically peel the entire frog, leaving a scab-like covering that usually has more thrush growing under it, and only kill superficial thrush, while the hard-core stuff is flourishing in cracks and commisure's.  After reading this, I swapped to TTO, because I saw what was described above, only didn't understand it until I read this.

Soaking treatments, Chemical. Very time consuming for 4 horses, interest waned quickly.

•          Clean Trax.  Tried it. 2x. Didn’t kill it all.

•          White Lightning, couldn’t find where to buy it.

•         Oxine, didn’t try it.

•         Lysol, didn’t try it, A simple reading of the Lysol label and cautions about what happens if it contacts the skin, was sufficient to send me scurrying in another direction. 

• Listerine, full strength, orangey brownish original kind only, spray it on.  Tried it, didn't kill it all.

Soaking treatments, natural.

•          Apple cider vinegar.  Use it undiluted. It is a natural disinfectant and won't get the horse out of balance like kopertox and some of the others will.  ACV makes an extremely mild and effective soak for mild thrush, yeast and shedding frog problems. Haven’t tried it. Dilution: 1 part organic apple cider vinegar : 2 parts warm water. Soak 20 minutes to 1 hour

•          Epsom salt, water, trace minerals. Tried 4x.  Didn’t get rid of it all.

•          Usnea soak = 2 drops per oz of water. A 16 oz bottle needs about 32 drops. Shake very very well before each use. You can make it stronger for more serious cases; its not an exact science. If you don't get results use more drops.  Didn't try it.

• Hydrogen Peroxide, bleach, iodine, sugar-dyne (sugar and iodine). Unfortunately, all of these contain ingredients that destroy the thrush but destroy the frog along with it, delaying the development of a healthy frog, so I didn’t try them.

Tips.

·         Slathering zinc oxide ointment (Desitin) over a thoroughly scrubbed (with soap and water) and treated frog, working the Zinc Oxide into the cracks, helps protect the frog from urine.

·         Pea gravel laid 4 to 6 inches deep provides the best environment for healthy feet. The gravel drains well and scours the feet to remove tattered frogs and lose sole.

Yep, I tried quite a few things, and have come to realize that my horses all had BAD infections going on, since nothing completely cleared it up.  Deep commissures and sulcus’s. Cracks running up the heel.  I have been swapping products every couple of weeks/months to see what works and what doesn’t.  Meanwhile, each time the frog sheds, I get a whole new layer of garbage coming out.  So while I haven’t beat it yet, I am making progress, I think I had an infection up into the digital cushion on one horse. Now, months into this learning curve, I believe I can see the light at the end of the tunnel, I have nice healthy frogs on 12 out of 16 feet.  No more pockets of thrush showing up under the shedding.  I also didn’t scrub the feet clean each time I treated them, I think that was a mistake. That is my next experiment. Let’s see if I can whoop this stuff, while they stand around in ankle deep moisture 90% of the time.

February 2013 Winter hydration

Blog for February 2013

Hydrating during the winter

When the weather starts to get cold and gross, keeping your horse hydrated and healthy can get rather challenging sometimes.  If your horse has issues keeping hydrated during the cold, here is a recipe for mash that might help.  Check your horses’  skin elasticity and the manure.  If the skin doesn’t snap back, (in front of the shoulders, just where the neck goes into the shoulder blade) they may be dehydrated,  or the manure is hard and dry.

3 to 4 cups of grass hay pellets (I like the timothy or grass pellets from Standlee Hay)
*1/2 gallon to 2/3 gallon + of hot water
*Add the PGR, if you feed grain, and the supplements that you use.
*Add  1/4 to 1/2 oz of DynaSpark,( electrolyte)  and some DynaPro. (prebiotic)
*Chopped or grated apples and/or carrots are always appreciated, too.

Soak for 10 minutes.  You can play with it too see if your horse likes it super sloppy (add more water) or a little dryer.   My horses love their mash!  As a side note, soaked hay pellets can cover alot of other nasty tasting things you might need to feed, like antibiotics or other drugs from the vet or joint supplements.

Magnesium is a natural laxative, you can add that to the mash if needed.  I use a Dynamite product called Easy Boy if and when my horses need it.

A number of years ago the Horse Journal did a study that showed that horses prefer cold water over warm.  Stock tank  heaters can keep the temperature above freezing, but some horses can feel any little tingle of electricity and won’t drink element heated water.  Some horses don’t like the metallic taste of the element in the water either. Keep the cord out of harms way too, my horses will play with it and pull the heater out of the tank, and one year, one of them chewed into the cord!  Now I put it under rocks and duct tape the cord to the tank.   If none of these ideas work, you can always soak your hay before you feed it.  Careful of always providing warmed water, because if they don’t get it for some reason, (power outage, you get sick) they can go on a water strike.

 

www.dynamitemarketing.com/jenniferodle  for product info and ordering

Bot Fly

January blog on the bot fly

Bot flies are gross, they are huge buzzing monstrosities with a big dangly butt.  They lay eggs on our horses and then the horse snoozles them and they go thru the digestive tract and make more. Eeeeewwwww!  Here are some helpful suggestions to get rid of them.   I am going to go through the conventional wisdom then the holistic way.

My horses used to attract bot flies, since I cleaned up their diet and they eat mosty organic food now, and have free choice minerals out, and eat the way horses are designed to, I haven't had any in about 8 years.  The theory is that horses who are getting adequate copper and sulfur are not bothered by bots, as are those with the proper Ph balance.  MSM or garlic are great sulfur sources.  SOD is a fantastic balanced copper source.  Apple cider vinegar, organic of course with the mother in it, also seems to deter them as well.  It either discourages the flies or kills the eggs in the stomach. I saw quite a few yellow eggs on other horses all over the state this year, so I know they are out there.  Many horses will go bonkers trying to get away from them, as they are really loud and sound like really big bees.

Bots usually lay their eggs on the horses legs, from the knee down.  Horses then itch with their teeth or rub their faces on the legs, and down the hatch the eggs go.  The larvae lives in the horses stomach for 8-10 months, then from first frost to late spring get deposited in the manure where it changes into a pupal and hangs out for 4-8 weeks during the early summer. Flies emerge from middle to late summer, they live for 7-10 days and lay upwards of 500 eggs, which stay on the hair of your horses legs for 7-14 days, then get ingested and it starts all over again.    Bot flies tend to be cyclic, like all of nature,  some years there are more than others.  It depends on the weather, how early it freezes and kills the flies in the fall, and how cold the spring is after the larvae gets deposited on the ground.

You can kill the larvae, keep the flies away, keep the eggs from hatching, or keep the eggs off the horse.  Here we go....

Chemical:  Ivermectin blast to get rid of the larvae.  Dr. Erin Zamzow, DVM offers the opinion that a 200lb dose of zimectrin, about 1/5 the normal  amount one would use. You would do this in the fall, about 30 days after the first killing frost, separate from any other wormer.  You do NOT want to mix the drug classes. Holistic : Anecdotal evidence is that the Dynamite parasite cocktail of 2 oz. herbal tonic, 1 oz. dry clay and 1 tsp of excel, fed in a mash of wet hay pellets for a week works also.

 Fly spray:  One with enough of an oil base to suffocate the eggs.  The oil plugs the blow hole on the bot eggs and kills them.  Even if the eggs get ingested, they are dead and won't hatch.  Dynashield sprayed or wiped (diluted) on the legs daily will work and will also repel the flies.  A lady in Alberta,  observed that when areas of bot eggs are saturated with Dynashield, the eggs were gone the next day.
Straight vegetable, mineral, or olive oil will also suffocate them without the added benefit of repelling the mature flies.  You must wipe it on every few days once the eggs are laid.  Oil on the tender muzzles can cause sunburn, so do this late in the day only.

Removing the eggs:  A straight razor, (careful!) shaver, bot brick or shedding stone will take the eggs off the hair.  You can also wash your horses legs with warm water during the egg laying season and that makes them come off.  If you choose to scrape them off, do so in an area where the horses won't ingest them in hay or grass, maybe on a piece of paper or something you can wrap up and throw away when you are done.

There you have it, brain is empty on this subject.

:)


www.equinenharmony.com, links page for dynamite link, for products listed above.

December Blog

To blanket….or not?

This month I am going to throw out a few ideas about blanketing.  I am going to state some of the issues with each, so you can make an informed decision that is best for you and your horse.

Nature intended horses to have a built in blanket.  Here in the Pacific NW, sometime in August, the gradual shortening of days tell the horse to start growing more hair to get ready for winter.  Horses live in many different situations, from large pasture to small stalls.  Each comes with their own challenges.

People blanket for many different reasons.  It can make the person feel better, thinking their  horse likes a snuggly coat on, cleanliness, health, convenience, etc.

Stalled horses.  Horses confined to stalls are generally unable to move around enough to keep themselves warm when the temperature starts to drop.  Horses are designed to move aprox. 20 miles a day at a walk, regulating their body temperature, and there is no way they can do that in a stall, so blanketing them is a kindness I feel in this situation,  with different thicknesses of blankets available for the different temps.

Pastured horses.  Depending on the acreage of the pasture and pasture mates, horses can and will move more than their stalled counterparts, lessening the need for a blanket, assuming the horse is healthy.  A horse with a pasture mate is more likely to move around more than if he was by himself.

Combo stall/pasture.  Oh yeah, now you get both worlds.  Warmer blanket for when they are standing in the stall, lighter weight for when they have turnout.

Hay.  Free choice hay in either situation is a good idea, and it should be kept in front of them at all times during the cold winter months.  Slow feeder hay bags are a great solution to those horses who stand and eat until all the hay is gone, or for the messy wasteful types.  Slow feeder bags feed as nature intended for horses to eat, slowly and over 18 hours a day.   They help the easy keeper cut down on calories, and and help the hard keeper put more weight on.  Heat is generated by the digestion of hay, and is what keeps them warm. A constant supply of food also helps prevent ulcers, and alleviate boredom.

Snow.  Horses in extreme cold, ie. Alaska, do fine in -30 degree weather as long as they have a place to be out of the wet and have a windbreak, as long as they have enough food, and have acclimated.  Dry snow can be insulating, so don’t brush it off.  Wet heavy snow....blah, make sure they have a covered area or blanket them until it is over.  :)

Clipping.  If you choose to clip your horse, blanketing is a must.  A mild trace clip would be the only clip you might be able to get away with not blanketing.  A trace clip removes the air along the high sweat areas that have major blood vessels.

Once you start the warm blanket cycle for the winter, you must continue it, for the horse will adapt by growing less hair, not enough to keep them warm should you remove the blanket for any amount of time.  Blankets will weaken the mini muscles that make their hair stand up to insulate them, reducing the ability for them to ‘fluff’ their hair for insulation against the cold. You will want to have more than one warm blanket and a variety of other thicknesses available as the weather changes, and washing.  For instance, a blanket for 30 degree weather will be too  heavy for a 50 degree day, and will cause them to sweat and be uncomfortable, possibly causing skin issues. Don’t forget to take the blankets off a few times a week to brush your horse and check for skin issues and for weight, your horse can develop rain rot or lose weight really quickly, and you might not notice if you leave the blanket on for long stretches.  

Wind and rain combined can also cause problems, as the horse gets soaked to the skin and can’t stay warm.  A temporary rainsheet for the unblanketed horse in this situation would be nice, as they would have to burn less calories to stay warm, cutting down on the feed bill.

Hopefully this article will help you choose what is best for your horse. 

Rain Rot

November

Rain Rot

What is rain rot?  Rain rot is a dermatitis, usually on the  topline of the horse, from withers to tail.  The cause is usually when the horse gets wet and stays wet in damp weather and bacteria/fungus gets a foothold.  High humidity and blankets that don’t let the skin breathe are not good combo.  It tends to happen more in the winter when the horses get a heavy coat and it is raining a lot or snow melts on their backs.  Healthy horses can get rain rot if they have a flat back or a spinal crease, fondly known as a gutter.  J  Rain rot presents itself above the knees and hocks for the most part, and is characterized by scab like things that pull off with a tuft of hair, looking like a tiny paintbrush.  

Prevention obviously is the best course of action.  Keeping the pH of the skin healthy and the diet clean so there is nothing to predispose to crud. (Like getting rid of legumes for most  horses((alalfa, clover)).  Vit A is also important for skin, as is copper.  Keeping your horse brushed daily or every  other day with a stiff dandy brush or rubber curry comb will also help.  Get all that mud and crud off on a regular basis. 

If your horse should happen to get a case of rain rot, here are a few ways to treat it.  Brush, scrub, pick, shave if needed, to get down to the skin.  Bathing with a tea tree oil based shampoo if it is warm enough, or if you can wash and dry the horse under heat lamps in a draft free area.  You can also do smaller areas over a couple of days if that works better.  Colloidal silver does a good job.  Pour or spray on full strength topically.  One treatment usually does it.  Tea tree oil/ olive oil mix, 1 part tea tree to 10 parts olive oil works awesome too.  This combo softens the scabs and helps them come off easily.  Put it in a spray bottle and spray on skin.  If you are in sunny area, don’t do this during the day, as with any oil,  the oil can cause sunburn, so do it in the evening, let it soak the scabs all night,  and wash off the following morning with a tea tree oil based shampoo, or a few drops of tea tree oil in your horse shampoo.   Rinse with warm water with some apple cider vinegar in it to balance the skin pH.  You should only have to do this once a week.  I have also heard that using very green tomatoes, cut in half, then rubbed on the affected area, also works most excellently.

If you don’t know where to purchase quality products, here ya go!  www.dynamitemarketing.com/jenniferodle 

·         All natural shampoo

·         Solace -  colloidial silver

·         Apple cider vinegar – super ACV

·         Copper supplement – SOD

·         Vit E supplement – OxE mega

·         Tea tree oil

Fall and colic

Fall and spring tend to be high colic times.  Why?

There are all sorts of causes for colic. Ulcers, kidney problems, pain,  spinal nerves being affected by subluxations, ivermectin wormer with ulcers, uneven hoof trims causing pressure on an area of the coronet band that affects the large or small intestine meridian ting points, stress and barometric changes are a few of the causes of colic. We just tend to assume it is intestinal and start pouring in the oil and giving pain killers. This blog is about empowerment.  Don't be a victim, you don't just have to walk your horse around while you stress waiting for the vet to arrive to save your horse.  You can do things to help.  Here are some things you can do while waiting for the vet.  Check for gut sounds.  A stethoscope is best, but your ear can do in a jiffy. Low on the left, high on the right side, put your ear right on the flank area, standing forward near the shoulder, so you don't get kicked, keep both hands on the horse. You should hear gurgling sounds if the gut is moving.  If it's quiet, you might have impaction colic. If you hear "pinging" sounds, it is gas colic.  For gas you can stand them head downhill or front feet in a hole, gas rises, and it will help them pass it. 12- 20 cc of Dynapro with some Relax every 20 minutes until improvement, then every hour usually has them ok in a short time. Nux Vomica 30c-200c can be very good also. You should keep all these things in your vet kit.  Instead of tubing oil, use 1 Tbsp NTM salt to a quart of distilled water.  Don't use Mortons salt, it has additives that cause it to NOT attract water, this defeats the purpose of the sodium.  Oil smothers all the good (and bad) bacteria in the gut.  Sea salt attracts water and water is lubrication.  You also can put tea tree oil in a shallow container like a jar lid and hold it up so it touches the belly button.  The belly button will absorb the tea tree oil and seems to stimulate the nerves and meridians to the gut.  The horse will usually poop within 20 minutes of doing this. Put them in a horse trailer, or by your trailer will also encourage them to go. (The stress of them thinking they are going somewhere)  Belly lifts contract the abs and will help the intestines move impactions through.  Work the bladder meridian and spray relax on the tail points to stimulate the gut. Use Ttouch on the tips of the ears and end of the tail.  If your horse wants to eat, let them, eating is relaxing for horses, it releases good endorphines in the brain.  If the horse wants to lay down and rest, it's ok.  (DO NOT let them roll. ) It's like when you get a bellyache, curling up in bed and resting can feel good. Check the heart rate.  A raised heart rate can show pain.  It's nice to have a baseline of what your horse normally is, anywhere from 30-40 bpm, although it can be higher.  Good to check before anything goes wrong.  Check the horses temp.  Normal is between 99.5 -101.5.  Higher can point towards infection.  Pigeon toed horses have impactions colic more often, horses that toe out are more prone to spasmodic colic, because of the different effects on the gut by ting points inside or outside on the coronet band.  Ting points are the beginning or ending of acupuncture meridians, that affect all the different organs and energy flow in the body.  If you can do alot of these things, it has been known that colic can clear up before the vet even arrives, if not, at least you have been with your horse with the intention of helping and your horse won't forget that.  None of these things will harm your horse, you can only improve his well being.  Miracle clay or kelp is great for ulcers.They both coat and soothe the stomach and intestines without blocking much digestion.  Of course you should always have 2-1 out free choice, so when the barometer is in flux, they can replace the calcium that the body is throwing off, and therefore balance themselves, lessening the chances of colic in the first place.  Keep the gut happy with a pro or prebiotic is the most important thing, if you do no other supplements, do a pro/prebiotic on a regular basis.  Any kind of stress, weather, riding, trailering, buddy moving away, etc. will cause the good bacteria in the gut to die off or go dormant.  Horses have a tendency to drink less water in the winter also, because of the water temp, you can give low doses of Dynaspark or another electrolyte to keep the horse drinking, or put a heater in your water trough.

Products suggested can be found at my website on the links page.  http://www.equinenharmony.com/ or at your local health store.